Elliott, NAPA Team Finish 13th at Kentucky

Monday, July 16th, 2018
#9: Chase Elliott, Hendrick Motorsports, Chevrolet Camaro NAPA Auto Parts pit stop

Chase Elliott raced inside the top 15 throughout the 400-mile NASCAR Cup Series race at Kentucky Speedway before ending the night with a 13th -place finish.

Elliott and the NAPA AUTO PARTS team started Saturday night’s event in 16th. By Lap 33, Elliott had moved into 13th before being shuffled outside of the top 20 after a round of green-flag pit stops midway through Stage 1.




Elliott quickly worked his way back into 18th by Lap 60, and ten laps later, he was running 11th. He gained another position in the closing laps of Stage 1 to finish the segment inside the top ten. During the stage break, crew chief Alan Gustafson called the 22-year-old driver to pit road for four fresh tires, fuel and an air pressure adjustment after he reported his No. 9 NAPA Chevy was “good on the start, but really lazy on the right front.”

In Stage 2, Elliott continued to race near the top ten until later in the segment when he settled into 14th. He picked up another position toward the end of Stage 2 to finish the middle segment 13th.

Quick work by the No. 9 team helped Elliott gain three positions on pit road to start the final stage in tenth.



The Dawsonville, Georgia, native moved into ninth with under 60 laps to go in the race but fell back to 12th by Lap 221 after reporting that the front end of his Camaro was progressively getting tighter throughout the run. Elliott continued to race inside the top 15 as the laps wound down and ultimately ended the night with a 13th-place result.


Start / Finish: 16 / 13
Points Earned: 25
Points Standing / Total: 14th / 469 pts.


Next Race: July 22, Foxwoods Resort Casino 301, New Hampshire Motor Speedway
How to Watch or Listen: 2:00 p.m. ET on NBCSN, PRN, SiriusXM Channel 90


Chase Elliott: @ChaseElliott
Hendrick Motorsports: @TeamHendrick
No. 9 Team: @Hendrick9Team

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Sweet Gets Oh So Close to $50,000 Payday at Eldora Speedway

Monday, July 16th, 2018
Sweet Gets Oh So Close to $50,000 Payday at Eldora Speedway

Brad Sweet and the No. 49 NAPA AUTO PARTS team had a busy week of sprint car racing in Ohio to kick off the month of money, starting with the Brad Doty Classic at Attica Raceway Park and followed by three nights of racing at Eldora Speedway.

Fifty cars signed in for Tuesday night’s action at Attica, splitting the field into two qualifying groups. Sweet went out in the second group and finish fifth, putting him on the front row of heat five. The NAPA driver got a great start, only to be hit from behind by a fellow competitor. He was able to continue with damage to his tail tank, but the incident affected the car’s handling. The NAPA AUTO PARTS team finished in the second spot and transferred to the dash, where Sweet finished in the fifth position.



This put the No. 49 team on the inside of row five, in the ninth position for the start of the feature. With 40 laps ahead, Sweet and team were hopeful to move forward. Unfortunately, Sweet tangled with a car in
front of him and ended up spinning, causing a caution flag. As the laps wound down, Sweet could only catch a few cars and finished in the 17th position.



The second biggest weekend of the season was on tap at Eldora Speedway in Rossburg, Ohio. Thursday night started off with 46 cars signed in. Sweet went out in group two and posted quick time. The NAPA AUTO PARTS team started on the pole of heat race three, where Sweet captured the win. With the dash up next, Sweet and team fell back to fifth after starting second. After making a few changes to the No. 49 car, the team tackled the 30-lap feature. The changes weren’t enough to help the handling, and Sweet finished in the eighth position.



On Friday night, the No. 49 team were hopeful to rebound from Thursday’s eighth-place finish. Sweet went out late and was timed 11th out of the 53 cars signed in for the night. The NAPA AUTO PARTS team started fourth in the second heat race of the night. Sweet was able to make his way up to second, securing him a spot in the dash. The No. 49 started and finished the dash in ninth. Another 30 laps were on tap for the feature. With the track proving to be super technical and slick, Sweet and his NAPA AUTO PARTS team missed the set up a bit and finished 11th.



The big money was on the line for Saturday’s feature event, and the NAPA AUTO PARTS team were hoping to cap off the weekend with a solid run. A different format was in place for the $50,000-to-win event, with 51 cars returning for the finale at Eldora Speedway in front of a record crowd. Sweet went out 46th out of the 51 cars and was timed in 26th. On any other night, it would have been a deep hole to dig out of.



Luckily, the No. 49 team started on the pole of the second heat race, which Sweet went on to win, placing him in the fifth starting spot for the night’s 40-lap feature event. With a track surface that had changed from the previous two nights, the green flag was ready to drop. Sweet quickly charged to the front, and within the first 20 laps, he was in third. As lapped traffic came into play, Sweet maneuvered to second and gained ground on the leader. With less than ten laps to go, Sweet cut the lead by less than a second when lap cars proved to be tough to get around. With five to go, the NAPA AUTO PARTS team had the crowd on their feet. Sweet came to the white flag and put the No. 49 car right against the fence to come up half a car length short of winning the race.



The World of Outlaws Series continues its 40th Anniversary Season and Month of Money with the Don Martin Memorial Silver Cup at Lernerville Speedway, which will pay $25,000 to the winner. Following that, the Outlaws will head to Central Pennsylvania to take on the Pennsylvania Posse at Lincoln and Williams Grove Speedway.


Start / Finish:
July 10 – Attica Raceway Park: 10 / 17
July 12 – Eldora Speedway: 5 / 8
July 13 – Eldora Speedway: 9 / 11
July 14 – Eldora Speedway 5/2
Points Standing / Total: 2nd / 5148 pts.


Next Race: Tuesday, July 17, Lernerville Speedway, Sarver, PA
How to Watch or Listen:


Brad Sweet: @BradSweet49
Kasey Kahne Racing: @KKRdirt

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Rossi Lands Eighth in Toronto

Monday, July 16th, 2018
ort| Keyword: Exhibition Place| Keyword: Canada| | Session: Race| | Driver: Alexander Rossi| Team: Andretti Autosport| Number: 27| Car: Honda|

NAPA Racing driver Alexander Rossi bounced back from misfortune to cross the finish line in eighth at the IndyCar race in Toronto.

The weekend was off to a strong start and expectations were high for the No. 27 team as Rossi finished every on-track session, including qualifying, running in the top five. Advancing to the Firestone Fast Six in qualifying, Rossi competed against the championship’s front-runners for the pole position. It was eventually Josef Newgarden who scored Verizon’s P1 award. Rossi settled with the fifth grid position.



When the 85-lap race on the streets of Toronto went green, Rossi settled back one position in sixth until the first pit stop. In and out of the pits quickly, the NAPA AUTO PARTS machine made its way back out to the track to battle Team Penske’s Will Power for another position. But on Lap 27, Rossi found his front wing in the back of Power’s machine. A yellow flag came out at the same time for Rossi’s teammate, who was stuck in the tire barriers, just one turn ahead. With his front wing dangling, Rossi ran around the track until the pits were open. The NAPA KNOW HOW crew changed the front wing swiftly and Rossi was back on track and able to catch up to the pack before the green flag came back out.

Taking the restart from 20th, the championship contender struck misfortune again. Graham Rahal had spun on track collecting cars and creating little space to maneuver through. With nowhere to go, Hunter-Reay and Rossi made contact and the No. 27 machine was forced to pit again under the yellow conditions on Lap 34 and Lap 36, for decreasing tire pressure and another front wing change, respectively.



Determined and driven to continue collecting championship points, Rossi worked through the field of the action-packed, drama-filled Honda Indy Toronto, to eventually rebound back to eighth position when the checkered flag flew.

“It’s a pretty disappointing result,” said Rossi. “I don’t think we had the car to beat Scott [Dixon], but for sure with the problems that everyone had, we could’ve finished second. It’s been a difficult string of races. We had contact with Will [Power] and he had a bit of a problem going into Turn 3 and I misjudged the closing rate, so I had a front-wing change that put me to the back of the field. Then [Graham] Rahal spun around, and I stopped to avoid it, but then Ryan [Hunter-Reay] hit me and I went airborne. We changed the wing again and stopped a couple more times. The fact that we finished eighth is a huge testament to the NAPA AUTO PARTS team and I’m so thankful for them. It was a difficult day and they kept me in it. We’ve had a lot of mistakes lately and there’s not a lot of time off, so we have a lot of work to do.”



Start / Finish: 5 / 8
Points Earned: 24
Points Standing / Total: 3rd / 394 pts.


Next Race: Honda Indy 200 at Mid-Ohio – Sunday, July 29 at 3 p.m. ET
How to Watch or Listen: NBCSN or INDYCAR Radio Network Sirius 214//XM 209


Alexander Rossi: @AlexanderRossi
Andretti Autosport: @FollowAndretti

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Know-How Notes: How to remove and install flat glass windows

Monday, July 16th, 2018
How to remove and install flat glass windows

If the windshield is cracked on your modern vehicle, you call the glass shop and have them come out and replace it for you. The process is messy and complicated, requires special tools and glues, and the glass is expensive. If they break it while it is being installed (which happens more often than you might think), they replace it on their dime. This makes glass replacement a lot more difficult for the average DIYer, but what about older vehicles, pre-1960s? These cars have flat glass and are typically retained with a weatherstrip seal instead of being glued in like most mid-60s and later vehicles. If you are considering tackling this project, here’s a few tips on how remove and install flat glass windows.

The process of restoring or customizing a classic car often requires you to remove and install flat glass windows and weatherstrips. This job can be intimidating if you have never dealt with glass before. It really is not as hard as it may seem. The key tips that will make the job easier and successful are patience, technique, and using the right tools.

Types Of Glass Seals

This style of glass is not glued in, rather held with a rubber weatherstrip. This style was used as recently as the late 1980s on GM trucks, but for the most part, glue-in glass has been the norm since the mid 1960s. There are two style of rubber-retainer: solid rubber and locking strip. The locking strip style (such as GM trucks 1989 and older), have a large outer weather strip that goes on the window and the window channel, with a smaller insert ring that presses into the a groove around in the center of the rubber. This pushes out on the retaining seal, locking the glass in the vehicle. You can remove the center ring and then cut the rubber to pull the glass out. After 30 or more years, the rubber is hard and brittle, these are rarely savable.

Removing The Glass

For the solid rubber seals, you just have to cut it. In most cases, you can use a razor knife and cut the outer lip off the seal and remove the glass. Sometimes you need to use a wire cutter, which is pushed through a section of the rubber and then pulled back and forth around the window, sawing through the seal.

A razor knife is the best way to cut the seal on the glass.


The older the rubber, the harder it is to cut, as this vehicle required using a screwdriver to break the hardened rubber away.

Once the glass is removed, the area around the seal on the body of the vehicle must be cleaned and restored. Any rust and scale should be removed, holes need to be repaired, etc. If the vehicle is being painted, the glass remains out until that is completed.

A clean sealing surface is paramount to a leak-free installation.

Installing The Glass

Now the fun part begins. New rubber is soft and pliable, but windshield weatherstrips and seals are not the easiest to work with. These tips and tricks will help save your sanity, as well as your fingernails.

Before loading the glass into the rubber, add a small bead of 3M weatherstrip adhesive to help seal the rubber to the glass.

For a standard non-locking ring type seal, install the rubber onto the glass. This is fairly simple design, which can leak. It is a good idea to put a thin bead of weatherstrip adhesive inside the glass groove before installing the seal to the glass itself. These types of seals are usually fairly deep, so the rubber tends to stick on the glass before it is fully seated. Most 1950s and older vehicles have two-piece windshields, so a helper is very handy, as the glass can flop around while you are working on it. A suction cup handle  or two really helps keep thing in control.

If your glass has corners, like this two-piece windshield, start at one corner and work the glass into the channel.

Now that the glass is in the seal, there is an old-school trick that makes this job 100 times easier. If you try to use your fingers to flip the outer edge of the rubber seal over the window frame, you will spend hours trying and probably end up peeling back a few fingernails. Instead, loosely wrap a single cord around the outer seal groove, leave the two ends running out in the middle (criss-cross them for the best results). You can tape the ends to the glass so they don’t fall out while you position the glass.

The trick for this type of rubber is to use a rope. Any strong rope will do. We are using paracord in this instance, but string trimmer line is also a great option.


Start by pushing the cord into the rubber channel. You may want to use a flat bladed tool to help push the cord deep into the rubber.


Next, apply some 3M weatherstrip adhesive to the window frame.


Generously lube up the window frame and the rubber seal with lube. Don’t be stingy, it will help to have more than less.

We used a homemade tool to hold the glass using suction cups. You can also use a couple of helpers.

With the glass in position from the outside of the vehicle, have your assistant carefully press the glass towards the interior of the vehicle, while you sit on the inside. Slowly pull the cord at a 90-degree angle to the glass. The rubber seal edge should pull into the cab, and as you work around the glass, the lip should slide into the seal’s groove. Once you reach the other end of the cord, the glass should be fully installed and ready for clean-up.

Make sure the glass is even with the body and that the cord does not come out. Use a lot of soapy water to help this process go smoothly.


With a helper pushing on the glass from the outside, carefully pull the cord so that the rubber flap pops through the car and around the sheet metal lip.


In tight spots, you may want to use a nylon trim tool to help guide the rubber.

If your seal has a locking ring, follow the same steps, but the glass installs from the inside of the vehicle to the outside (pull cord towards the hood), and then lube up the locking groove and locking strip, and install.

All done! This is a simple task but without the cord, you would be extremely frustrated and it would take much longer to complete.

Installing flat glass is not difficult if you use the tips and tricks shared above. Judicious lubrication and patience are the keys to a successful installation. Of course, if you don’t want to try this yourself, visit the experts at your local NAPA AutoCare Collision Center.

Check out all the vision and safety parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to install flat glass windows, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

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This Car Technology May Detect a Personal Health Crisis Before You Do

Sunday, July 15th, 2018
A paramedic truck driving down the street.

Car technology has advanced to the point where cars can detect when tires need air, sense when a crash is imminent and even take appropriate countermeasures. Some models can automatically notify 911 when a crash occurs. Not all cars have these features, but they’re currently available and are making a difference — and they’re just the beginning.

Soon, your car may go one step further by monitoring your personal health. Yes, even before a crisis ensues, your car may literally give you an update on your health. It’ll even be capable of potentially lifesaving responses.

Car Technology: My Car, the Medic

There is a convergence taking place between automobiles and technology. Ever since the federal mandate requiring cars to include an onboard diagnostics port (an OBD-II for most vehicles built after 1996), computers have played a significant role in how your car starts, operates and interacts with many other onboard components.

Acting as the brain of the car, the Company is one such manufacturer experimenting with various health and wellness features for future vehicles.

Ford is currently testing three types of health features at its European Research and Innovation Centre in Aachen, Germany — each type represents either built-in (included), brought-in (added) or beamed-in (remote) services.

Built-In Tech

On the built-in side is a heart monitor that utilizes six embedded sensors in the driver’s seat. When you wear light clothes (this means no winter coat), the system detects electrical impulses and can sense when you have a heart attack while driving.

The monitor might prove ideal if you need to monitor your heart — instead of conducting a test at home before leaving for the day, the car would perform the task for you. When you arrive at your destination, a detailed analysis will be waiting in your email inbox.

Additional steps include the system automatically contacting emergency services for help and moving the vehicle safely to the side of the road. One step further would be for the car to automatically navigate its way to the nearest hospital emergency room.

Brought-In Tech

Similarly, if you have diabetes and need to regularly monitor your glucose levels, the new car technology could come in handy. A sudden drop in glucose levels can cause people with diabetes to pass out — which can prove disastrous behind the wheel of a car.

One way to keep tabs on your glucose level is by monitoring it with sensors located under your skin that automatically send data to your smartphone. If you keep track of yours this way, your car can keep you updated while you drive. The sensor data can be transmitted to the vehicle’s interface, providing a safer way to read and interpret those results than taking your eyes off the road. The early stages of this technology are already evident in our homes, in products like digital personal assistants. Now automakers are developing tools to extend that convenience to the road.

Beamed-In Tech

The third area Ford is exploring is beamed-in technologies. You won’t see this tech in the near future, as it requires vehicles to connect directly to the internet.

Ford envisions the car of the future connecting with a personal physician by utilizing cameras, sensors and even low-intensity radar to measure vital signs. The car would transmit your blood pressure, heart rate, respiration and body temperature to your doctor while they consult with you en route to your destination.

Cars with the ability to make decisions, even reason, are not so far-fetched. From the 1928 Porter in the 1960s TV flop, “My Mother the Car,” to KITT, a self-aware 1982 Pontiac Firebird in “Knight Rider,” popular culture has continually imagined cars that might connect with us, if not always in helpful ways. Today, automakers are developing connected car technologies with advanced features that could make personal health monitoring on the road a reality.

Check out all the relays, sensors and switches available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on new car technology, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

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How to Keep Your Garage Cool in the Summer

Saturday, July 14th, 2018
Cool off your garage

For those who work in a garage, summer can be one of the hardest seasons to get through. Oppressive heat is not only uncomfortable, but it can be deadly. Trying to cool your garage with air conditioning isn’t impossible, but it is completely cost ineffective. Luckily there are a number of things that, done together, make a big impact and can help keep your garage cool.

Protection Plan

The first step is best summed up in one word: insulation. Your main goal is to keep the sun and ambient heat from penetrating the walls and ceiling. You can do this by creating shade or making it as difficult as possible for heat to transfer. This plan of attack starts outside the garage. If your garage faces the sun at its most brutal hours, install a retractable awning or plant a big deciduous tree. These are both great options to create shade because remember that eventually, winter is coming, and when it does the awning retracts and the leaves fall so you can let in all the light possible.

There are insulated garage doors on the market, but if your budget doesn’t allow that, you can buy aftermarket kits and install one on your existing door. Also, add insulation to your walls and definitely don’t forget the ceiling. The type of insulation you use will depend on the materials and construction of your garage, so be sure to get a professional opinion before you start going the DIY route.

Sweat the Small Stuff

Seal cracks around the floor and windows with caulk and install weather strips under any doors. This helps keep the heat out and makes attached air-conditioned rooms more energy efficient. Also keep in mind that light colors reflect heat while dark ones absorb it. It’s definitely worth your time to give every dark surface a fresh, light paint job. White works best, but if you aren’t into that, any off-white or pastel is preferable to dark hues. And don’t forget ambient and work lights can give off massive heat. Replace old bulbs with LEDs so you aren’t working against yourself.

The Heat Is In

Unfortunately, despite your best efforts, heat will get in. Getting it out and the air circulating is going to be one of your best weapons. A system of fans and strategically placed openings can make a world of difference. Install a vent or full exhaust fan in the ceiling to pull hot air out, open the garage door a couple of feet and add a high powered shop fan into the mix.

Lastly, don’t forget to keep cool yourself by staying hydrated and wearing loose-fitting, light, breathable clothing. You might also consider what hours you work; obviously high noon is the time to avoid and not a bad excuse for a siesta.

Check out all the tools & equipment available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to keep your garage cool, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Flickr.

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Are You Ready for Car Show Season?

Friday, July 13th, 2018
A flashy 1967 Mercury Cougar coupe at a car show.

It’s summer, and that means it’s time to take classic cars out of hibernation for car show season! From local cruise nights to track days, car shows are a staple of classic family entertainment. Across the country, there are hundreds that you can participate in or enjoy as an attendee. Here’s a quick-and-dirty guide to this summer’s car shows.

How to Prepare Your Classic Car for a Show

Want to show off all the hard work you’ve put into your car this summer? Getting your classic featured in a car show isn’t too hard. You’ll have to meet the specific show’s standards — whether they’re by model or state of restoration — and usually pay entrance fees. Once you’re all registered, it’s time to get your car ready for the big day. Here are seven basic steps for classic car prep:

  1. Clean the engine and undercarriage. Use degreaser on a warm engine for the best results. Make sure to protect the fenders and the windshield from overspray.
  2. Wash the exterior, starting with the wheels first. Then, with a fresh bucket, work from the top down. Rinse first, wash, then rinse again.
  3. Dry the exterior with a chamois or microfiber towel.
  4. Polish imperfections with a clay bar or polishing compound. Use a polishing ball for curves and deep recesses.
  5. Wax your car, working in small sections. Work in the shade to prevent hazing.
  6. Vacuum the carpets and dust the dash. Use a solution of mild soap and water to clean plastic and vinyl, and leather conditioner for leather.
  7. Use auto-specific glass cleaner to clean the inside and outside of your windshield and windows.

Once you’ve completed these steps, your classic ride will be almost ready for show time. The final step is to make sure your classic is properly insured. Conventional auto insurance might not give you enough coverage for a classic car, so do your homework before hitting the road in a car that’s been in storage for a while. That way, whether you’re driving or trailering to the show, your car is covered against damage.

Where to Show Your Classic This Summer — Or Simply Spectate

The Porsche Parade in Osage Beach, Missouri, July 8 to 14 is a must-see if you love Porsche. This annual parade features models from across the automaker’s history, as well as a swap meet, workshops, rallies and racing. This is where Porsche is idolized. If you’re a fan, you’ll be in great company.

If you’re near Boston, Cars and Coffee is an event series not to miss. As part of the series, on July 14, Aug. 25 and Oct. 27, the Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline, Mass., hosts meet-ups with car enthusiasts and shows models from its historic collection. Grab your favorite caffeinated brew and see some of Boston’s greatest automobiles.

Also in New England, the Vermont Antique and Classic Car Show in Waterbury is coming up on Aug. 10 to 12. This Green Mountain State show has been going strong for six decades! The three-day show includes classic cars, a fashion show, a flea market, a parade and street dancing — and of course music, food and drink for everyone.

For West Coast folks, Monterey Car Week in Monterey, Calif., is a must-see. It runs from Aug. 22 to 26 this year. To call this show “big” would be a severe understatement. Monterey Car Week features at least a half-dozen shows, another half-dozen auction houses, vintage racing and the world-famous Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance.

Back in the Northeast, the Lime Rock Park Historic Festival in Lakeville, Conn., runs from Aug. 30 to Sept. 4. What could be a better addition to a classic car show than classic car racing? At Lime Rock Park, spectators enjoy a vintage race car and sports car parade, as well as friendly classic car racing. Camping, dining and music round out this Labor Day weekend event.

Finally, if you find yourself satisfying your sweet tooth in Hershey, Penn., this autumn, don’t forget to also get your automotive fix at Fall Hershey from Oct. 10 to 13. If you want to see the entire history of the American automobile in the space of a weekend, Fall Hershey has it all. The four-day event includes miles of swap meets, classic car auctions and the Antique Automobile Club of America Fall Meet.

No matter what part of the country you live in, there are a slew of opportunities to take your classic out of storage and into the light of day — or just enjoy a good time with auto enthusiasts from all walks of life.

Check out all the maintenance parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on getting ready for a car show, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

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How to Choose a Tool Box That Suits Your Needs

Wednesday, July 11th, 2018
A variety of tool boxes that range in size and shape sit on a garage floor.

Whether you’re an occasional DIYer or a professional mechanic, chances are you have a few tools lying around. And since tools are the kind of things you need when you need them, you likely know the value of keeping them all neatly in one place. But with the number of tool boxes available, it can be easy to not know where to start. Here’s a look at how to choose a tool box that suits your space and project needs.

Size Matters

The number-one consideration when picking out a new tool box is capacity. Tool boxes come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from handheld to modest New York City apartment. If your tool collection consists entirely of Allen keys collected from Ikea purchases, you’ll be fine with something smaller, such as a sturdy bag or classic handheld tool box.

If you’re a professional working in a shop or out of your home, you’ll need something much larger. There are also plenty of in-between options for folks who have amassed a substantial tool collection in their home, or professionals who work out of their vehicle. A few questions to ask yourself are:

  • Just how many tools are you looking to house?
  • Do you need something to accommodate specialty items?
  • Where will the tool box live?

The final question is often an afterthought, but you’ll have fewer headaches if you plan ahead. Size is an important factor when you’re deciding where to place your tool box. Take measurements to ensure it fits where you want it to go before making any final purchase decisions.

Think Outside the Box

Something else to think about is the build of the unit. How mobile is your job or most frequent project? Not all tool boxes have wheels, and some travel much better than others, based on distance and the amount of stress they’ll be subjected to.

Industrial-grade polymer boxes with extendable handles do well if you need to transport a decent amount of heavier tools on a plane, for instance. A large rolling tool chest might be more appropriate for someone with a lot of tools who only needs to move the box around a garage, or wants an additional work surface. If you already have one large stationary box, you might consider adding a lighter but versatile rolling tool cart to complement your work space.

Tool Legit Tool Quit

The last major consideration is quality. For small fixes around the house, a box made from light plastic will do just fine. But if you work in an industrial field with heavy tools, you’re going to need better materials and construction to support them.

What level of rigidity do you need? A strong cloth is fine for a light load, but very heavy tools may require even double-paneled steel siding. Check out the casters for rolling boxes, and make sure they’ll support the weight. There’s a variance in sliding drawer hardware, as well, with ball bearings on higher-end products for extended, regular use. There are also all kinds of bells and whistles that can be added to the heavy hitters: lights, power strips, Bluetooth and even remote-locking capabilities.

Ultimately, you want a tool-storage solution that fits your needs, but doesn’t overdo it. Luckily there’s a wide variety of bags, boxes, chests, carts and combos to suit pretty much any situation. Take stock of your needs, and go from there.

Check out all the tools & equipment available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to choose a tool box, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photos courtesy of Blair Lampe.

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How to Repair Sagging Door Hinges

Tuesday, July 10th, 2018
How to Repair Sagging Door Hinges

Over time, the bushings and pins that hold the door hinge together wear out. It is a common issue, and why so many older vehicles have misaligned doors that don’t close well. This does not have to be the case. You could replace the sagging door hinges on older vehicles, but newer cars and truck door hinges are actually glued to the body, so you can’t replace them (not easily anyway). Rebuilding the hinges is fairly simple, though it does require some effort, a few tools, and in some cases, removing the door itself.

This sagging door hinges and drastic misalignment causes the door to not shut properly, not to mention the leaks.

Getting Started

We recently went through the door hinge rebuild process on a 1981 Chevrolet truck, however GM has used the same basic hinge design for nearly fifty years, so this process covers just about every domestic truck, and many of the cars on the road today.  On the truck we chose, the lower hinge does not require the door to be removed, but the upper does. The tools you need are a ratchet and socket set, hammer, and drift punch. If you have air tools, an air hammer with a hammer head makes this job go quickly.

You might be able to do the job with the door on, but on these trucks, the upper hinge pin hits the door itself, so it has to come off.

First, you need to determine if your door needs to come off. If the hinge pin is a single full length piece, you need to check to see if it will come out in one piece without hitting the door itself. We picked up a set of door pins and bushings in a kit from our local NAPA Auto Parts Store, there are several available for most common models in the NAPA Solutions section.

You can use a punch to knock the pin free, which we did before removing the door. This is how we figured out it had to be removed.

If you have an assistant, the job will be easier and you won’t have to fight the door moving around. Our door had to come off, so we unbolted it from the door itself (as opposed to removing the hinge from the body). This door has no electronics in it, so it could be just set aside. If it had power locks and windows, we would have to make a stand to support it. Pro tip: before removing the door, mark the position of the bolt heads on the door and the position of the hinge on the door. This will help you get the door aligned faster during reinstallation.

We unbolted the door using a ratchet. You can use a floor jack to support the door if you are working by yourself, but it is best to have a helper.

If your hinge has a spring loaded hinge, you need to remove the spring. This can be done with a spring removal tool.

Removing The Door Hinge Pins

Using our NAPA punch set, we selected a drift pin that fit the hinge pin and drove it up with a a few blows with a hammer. Be careful not to hit the body while you do this. If you have an air hammer, you can use it to drive the pin out. Once the pin moves about a half inch, it should be removable by hand. Some vehicles are easier to work with if you cut the pin.

You can use a punch or go straight to the hammer, sometimes you have to be aggressive to the get the pins out. Be careful around the paint.


The bushings had long been broken on this hinge, you can see the leftovers on the pin.

Assessing The Situation

Once the pin is out, you can look at the hinge pin hole. Usually, the hole is in bad shape and possibly even oval shaped. Sometimes the original bushing is still there, sometimes it is gone. Our vehicle had one of each. If the original bushing is in the hinge, you have to remove it. This is done by knocking it out or breaking it with the punch. We had to break all of the original bushings.

The holes for the bushings may be ovaled. If so you have a couple of options, depending on the bushings in your kit. Note the remaining piece of bushing, this must be removed.

Select the bushing that fits. We used the smaller bushing, which is the correct one for this vehicle. The bushing may drop right in if the hole is really bad, but usually, the bushing must be driven in place with a hammer. The top bushing goes in from the top, the bottom goes in from the bottom.

Our kit had 4 bushings and one pin. We used the smaller bushing, as it fit well. If the holes were ovaled, we would drill it round and use the larger repair bushing.

Prepping For The New Bushings

The original knurlings on the outer hinge plates tend to make fitting the new pins more difficult, to nearly impossible. We selected a drill bit that was the size as the hole, 23/32” in this case, and just buzzed it through the hole. This cleans up the old knurling and allows the pin to be driven in without bending the hinge plates.

The outer hinge is knurled for the pin so we dressed the old knurling with a drill bit. This makes it easier to install the new pin. Use the smallest bit possible, you don’t want it to go too big, just barely dress the knurls.

Installing New Bushings

The new bushings drop in place, but usually need a little tap to fully seat them.


They should be fully seated like this, upper and lower.

Putting It All Back Together

With the new bushings in place, the hinge was reassembled in the correct orientation, and then the new pin was installed. The new pin requires a heavier hand to drive the pin fully seated. Just be careful not to bend the hinge. The drill trick makes this much easier, but it still requires some effort. The air hammer is a real help here.

We slid the pin into the reassembled hinge, making sure the hinge was put together correctly.


Then we tapped the pin with a hammer to seat the pin. This usually requires higher effort.


The fully seated pin should look like this. It should not be raised at all.

The last step is to reinstall the door and make any adjustments to the door/hinge position. In most cases, there is not much adjustment on the outer door hinge mount.

Finally, we reinstalled the door and closed it. The door hits the striker without any issue. It has been slammed so much that the hinges need a little adjustment on the body, which we will take care of.

Before this job, the door had to be slammed to get it to latch. Now, the door shuts smooth as butter, which is nice for a vehicle that is 37 years old. The biggest trick of this job is having all the right parts on hand BEFORE starting it. It is a good idea to buy several kits just in case you need extra parts, you can always return the unopened kits.

Check out all the body & accessory products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 16,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on fixing sagging door hinges, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

The post How to Repair Sagging Door Hinges appeared first on NAPA Know How Blog.

Sweet Sweeps Night One at Cedar Lake Speedway

Monday, July 9th, 2018
Sweet Sweeps Night One at Cedar Lake Speedway

Brad Sweet and the NAPA AUTO PARTS team scored a win and a runner-up finish as they kicked off the “Month of Money” with two nights of World of Outlaws racing at Cedar Lake Speedway.

Sweet arrived at Cedar Lake Speedway in New Richmond, Wis., one of 27 cars signed in to the World of Outlaws event. Posting the quickest time of the competitors, Sweet put the No. 49 on the pole of the first heat race.



The NAPA AUTO PARTS team traded slide jobs with David Gravel throughout the heat race, creating a very exciting show. Sweet then drew a two to start on the outside front row of the eight-lap dash. The No. 49 team moved into the first spot within the first few laps and never looked back.

The field was set for the 35-lap A feature event. Sweet gained a lead of more than two seconds lead and
entered lapped traffic within the first nine laps. Sweet navigated perfectly through the heavy lapped traffic before a late caution bunched the drivers back up. With eight laps to go, Sweet got a clean track and won the 35-lap feature event for a clean sweep of the night: quick time, heat race win, dash win and the feature win.



For night two at Cedar Lake Speedway, the World of Outlaws lost two cars, leaving only 25 cars returning to competition. Sweet went out in the last position, which proved costly. The NAPA AUTO PARTS team scored 15th on the qualifying board, putting the No. 49 in the fifth starting spot of heat three.

At ten laps in distance, the heat race sends its top two finishers to the dash while the top six advance to the feature. Sweet propelled himself forward quickly, reaching the third position by lap four. On lap eight, Sweet took over the second spot, finishing there and securing a spot in the night’s dash.

As the dash lined up, Sweet found himself once again starting in the second spot. As soon as the green flag waved, Sweet took the lead and, after a brief battle with Jacob Allen, never looked back.



For the second night in a row, a dash win earned the No. 49 team the pole for the feature race, which was set for 41 laps to honor fellow competitor Jason Johnson. When the green flag waved, Sweet took the lead, only to get passed on lap three. He held this position until the caution flag waved on lap nine. Sweet restarted on the inside, again grabbing the lead. The NAPA AUTO PARTS team reached thick lapped traffic. On lap 38, Sweet was forced to change his lane to pass a lapped car, surrendering the lead. After the final three laps, Sweet and his NAPA AUTO PARTS team finished in the second spot.

The No. 49 team heads next to Attica Raceway Park for the Brad Doty Classic on Tuesday, July 10, then on to Eldora for three nights of racing, starting Thursday night and culminating with the King’s Royal on Saturday, July 14.


Start / Finish:
July 6 – Cedar Lake Speedway: 1 / 1
July 7 – Cedar Lake Speedway: 1 / 2
Points Standing / Total: 2nd / 4770 pts.


Next Race: Tuesday, July 10, Attica Raceway Park, Attica, Ohio
How to Watch or Listen:


Brad Sweet: @BradSweet49
Kasey Kahne Racing: @KKRdirt

The post Sweet Sweeps Night One at Cedar Lake Speedway appeared first on NAPA Know How Blog.